But, if it's Front Wheel Drive. Those are possible consequences - they don't always occur, but they certainly could. Check the repair manual for instructions and torque specifications. However, the joint itself is a weak point in the system. That sounds like tie rod failure. I will post pictures of the gasket and installation process.
When the two do engage, one hammers on the other and imparts an impact force onto it. Well we now have a partial success. There is a lot less stress on them than in rear-wheel drive cars though since the rear wheels don't steer, and I've never heard of one going out except in highly modified cars. It's just a fancy joint in the drive shaft that allows the shaft to pivot while being turned. However, the longer you drive with the boot busted, the more dirt and grime contaminates the joint and the more grease leaks out. The rear wheel tracking issues!! Turning issues can also be an indication of a problem. It begins to allow all manor of particles to get in there.
Rear wheel drive cars with independent suspension, like my two Thunderbirds, have them as well, in addition to the u-joints in the driveshaft. I used some tight fitting rubber vacuum caps with a dab of silicone on them to fill the holes. Thanks for the info FiatFleetFamily. The driveshaft is an important element of your vehicle that rotates and delivers power to the engine and gears that turns the wheels of the automobile. Parts were requested for analysis. Out of warranty you take things as they come.
Shortly thereafter the wheel bearings will seize, the wheel itself will come off, and you'll be sliding down the highway on what's left of your suspension while other drivers are trying to dodge a bouncing wheel hurdling out of control. Generally, they do not break down all at one time. This is necessary, since in cars the wheels move up and down with the suspension, but the driveshaft is fixed to the engine. I could have done that myself. That boot is being held in place with the help of two clamps. Come 2nd service 24K the 'clunk' was to me more pronounced and again I asked for this to be checked. Meanwhile I'll try to calm down, accept what is supposedly normal and try to tune out that clack.
. There was a lot of shiny exposed bearing surface. Yesterday, I stopped by and was shown the drive shaft. In this case, a whole drive shaft will need to be replaced. On winding two lane narrow roads under 50 mph , I did not notice anything significant.
I could have done that myself. Nick When this Croma forum started, I posted with another member this issue, but as others had no interest, it was never developed enough. The Croma is a great car, really. This is a sure sign that the joint has gone bad. It could fail to stay in place when you're in park. I have replaced all tyres recently apart from nearside rear.
For the most part, sorry to say, you are. That clicking sound will become louder and more frequent, then change to a screeching metal-on-metal sound. All though if I keep my old Bronco around a few more years I may have to replace a set of ball joints. By that time, I noticed that there was a rubbing noise at less than 25 mph. Keep in mind that I have not tried this fix yet. You may have completely missed them. At 54,000 miles, the transmission assembly tab on the bikes frame was repaired.
These cannot be repaired — only replaced. Wasn't sure if I was imagining it or not, but it seemed some type of bearing might be going out. I think you're probably right that cv joints can bend more than u-joints, but both can bend in any direction. I wound up using almost 2 on the Scat Pack alone. I don't know how both could have failed at the same time though, unless they had just jumped over the local ravine similar to the General Lee. The secondary consequences are listed above in Rick's post.
Just thought you all should know. I found the very same thing when I pulled my shaft to plug the holes. So I've got just about 3 months for the box to break or live with whatever follows after that. If there is any sign of trouble, the car should be taken in to a certified mechanic for immediate inspection for repair or replacement. On these cars, the differential is bolted to the body of the car, so it doesn't move relative to the body. This will make your car undrivable and can lead to a serious road accident! But as I've said before, I've never had to replace or repair one, so I've never really looked into them.
By now we have repaired thousands of new and retro cars. Shift the vehicle into drive with your foot on the brake and listen. This I may still do. I don't want to start paying money for unnecessary repairs so a little help would be appreciated. I plan on doing the Hellcat in a week or so at the same time that I swap in the 3. Also, front-wheel drive cars aren't the only ones with cv joints. A recent 125 mile freeway trip persuaded me that something might be amiss: going over rises and dips, as the suspension unloaded and recompressed, I observed increased vibration in the pegs and bars.