I then gave it one last try before calling a tow truck and bam, fired right up and idled normally. I personally don't use it in older cars. In this case, the wires we want all have a basic black color with a blue stripe. If yes, pump or relay or both need replacement. But, unfourtunitly the problem with mine is that it will crank with no problems, it just won't fire up.
Hope some of this helps. Looked for fuse could not find one. Cut a piece of 16 or 18 gauge insulated, stranded wire about 2. I'll try the bypass method. I take the key out, and it will click again about 5 seconds later. But other owners have scene an improvement. Went back and forth trying to start it, and it would keep firing for a couple of seconds and die.
Sometimes i would hold it in start possition and nothing but after a few sec it would crank but not it wont start at all, Just click,click,click! Resistive losses along the current path to the pump will reduce the voltage at the pump to something less than 13. The instructions below show you how to bypass the resistor and relay that the turbocharged 3S models use to reduce voltage to the pump at idle. Terminal 4 routes power to the resistor and terminal 2 routes power directly to the fuel pump. So I decided to check for the basics. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. How can I check if the fuel pump is working? Cold idle: 11 volts Warm idle: ~10. I have changed the fuel pump, checked all fuses, and still nothing.
I dont hear the fuel pump running ever. Car will not start trouble shooting guide, wont crank, wont turn over, etc. I'll be going to look at it on the 28th. Run a small jumper wire from one side to the other of the wiring harness plug not the resistor side. It would start back up and fail again whenever it wanted to. It would start back up and fail again whenever it wanted to.
Chris answered 5 years ago its a new battery,just cleaned all connections and nothing. I'll give ur a idea a go Mike. If not do a compression check for bent valves. No, we do not hand out car sponsorships. Loosen the 12-mm bolt that attaches the relay to the body untill it can be turned by hand.
Went back and forth trying to start it, and it would keep firing for a couple of seconds and die. Sometimes the female connection becomes loose or corroded causing the same issue. Thanks guys for your input. I have nightmares about that freakin click. You could connect terminals 3 and 2 together and achieve the same results. And also do u think the oil on my timing belt is the cause of my no restart problem. Re-attach the battery negative cable.
Slide the rubber boot back on and tape it to the wiring harness to reduce chances of dust and moisture from getting to the terminals. When you have a no start issue again use timing light to check for spark. There are two fuse locations, under the dash by your left foot, and under the hood behind the passenger side headlight. Hopefully this little tidbit will keep you from getting stranded some day or aid you in checking your fuel pressure! My car was just shutting down whenever it felt like it. Put pieces over the exposed terminals and then carefully wrap the whole connector. Im wanting to bypass it to see if the relay is bad or if its the fuel pump itself. Cause if it is sticking open you will have a no start issue.
The previous owner havent done that properly thats for sure. Did it start up after you replaced the timing belt? Found a selfmade connector were someone had used cable heads to connect wires to a connector. You don't need full power to the pump when at low idle. So that needs to be troubleshoot more, redo wires. I'm just glad it was such an easy fix, and nothing to stress over! I'm assuming its clicking off.