Now, I've never done this before but I am mechanically inclined. Tap the dust cover back on with the handle of the hammer. It is not a load component. It has a displacement of 366 cc or 6. Clean all mating surfaces, grease the axle spline and o-ring in base.
Tighten down the axle nut and washer on the axle. No warranties or guarantees are expressed or implied as to the accuracy of the information provided on this site. There are 4 push in wire retainers, you will not save them, so rip them out with pliers. The intake manifold bolts have 25 to 30 foot-pounds of torque, while the exhaust manifold has 20 foot-pounds of torque. Be fairly gentle as you will reuse this.
The intake manifold bolts have 25 to 30 foot-pounds of torque, while the exhaust manifold has 20 foot-pounds of torque. Also, what are the torque specs on the main axle nut, caliper bracket, caliper mount, and lug nuts? Step 11: The hub should slip right out. Do I know the torques? I've done my research and think this process is well within my grasp. Put wheel back on, lower truck. I think I'm gonna research this a little more. Step 2: Unplug the wheel sensor wire near the top of the shock. These wheels are 4 inch back spacing and -38 mm offset.
If you turn the steering, it makes them easier to remove. Use the cross pattern tightening procedure shown in your owners manual. There is a lot of slop in the axle rotation, so you don't have to precisely get the right tooth on the spline for it line up. They actually did a little at first. Other than that, it does nothing. You can drive pretty far worn bearings without fear of the wheel departing the truck due to the captive design of the unit. They are very wide Duck Commander mudders.
Step 7: Pry the center dust cover off with a sharp flat blade screwdriver. There is some electrical tape on the wire holding them together, tear it off. You can cut off the wire if you think it will get in your way. The questions I have are, what areas need to be greased? The nut is a locking nut, so it will be tight most the way off. You can tell if the wheel bearing is shot by jacking the truck up til the wheel is off the ground, grabbing the top and bottom of the tire and try to pry it in and out.
Step 5: Pull the top bolt and set the brake assy on something that will not stress the brake line. Nobody wants to lose a wheel!!!! I know I will have to get new wheels, so that brings me to two questions. Been on this site many times as a non-member and have found a ton of great information. You do not need these, I suggest you throw them away. Don't forget the dust shield. Unless you're selling it, then use red.
The manual for my 2008 Sierra says to torque the wheels to 140 pounds. The engine often comes as standard equipment on the special package trims or as an optional upgrade. This is a sealed bearing assy that includes the hub, lug bolts, bearings, axle spline, wheel speed sensor, and cable. Rotate the steering to get to them easier. . Preface: If you are running oversized tires, high hp, or subjecting your truck to extreme shocks on the front, like drag racing or sled pulling, your front wheel bearings will not last much past the 36k mi warranty. Use of this site implies your agreement to these terms.
The long cylinder head bolts have 75 to 80 foot-pounds of torque and the short cylinder head bolts have 65 to 68 foot-pounds of torque. I have a 07 sierra 2500hd classic. This will make it easy to pull the hub off when it's time. Seller said they were the largest tires he could get that don't scrub the wheelwells. I am looking for new wheels, I found a set I like and I need to know what offset and back spacing is needed. You will need to have something ready to support it when you remove the brake assy. Remove the bottom, then loosen the top one so you can remove it with your fingers.
Do you guys go the full 140 or something less? You might have to tap the axle a bit more while holding the hub out from the base. The questions I have are, what areas need to be greased? Do not hit the rotor with a steel hammer or you can burr it up. Don't forget to back off the torque wrench adjuster to take the pressure off the internal spring. Road test, and finish the last beer. Now, I've never done this before but I am mechanically inclined.
The optional, more powerful 6. Step 6: In this picture, the lug at 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock have a retaining washer that holds the disc on the hub for assembly purposes. If it's an older truck and those surfaces are kinda grungy, I torque the nuts, drive the vehicle 5 miles or so then re-torque just to be safe! Remove these by rotating them with a screwdriver, then pry them off. That keeps your wrench accurate. Been on this site many times as a non-member and have found a ton of great information. Hey guys, new member here.