Today I am working on my mechanic hat!! Which is wierd because I have been told by numerous people that Ford doesnt use vaccum lines in the 4wd system. The spring should push the gears in, without the vacuum line on. If not, you can pretty much guarantee its your switch they are not necessarily the same part, but if lights don't work, from my experience they go hand in hand. It is not very loud, so turn off the radio and blower. If it does not move, it could be a problem with the vacuum lines or the vacuum diaphragms. I decided to try and force it though and snapped it off like an idiot before I realized what the problem was. If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.
Mine was getting stuck in between crank and run. Push the clip in to disengage and disconnect. There is a solenoid in the shifter mechanism which prevents the shifter from being moved out of park until it is energized. All questionable parts are exchanged. If there is no voltage at the solenoid, then trace the wiring back until the voltage discontinuity is found. I think that's the switch you replaced? Note: The gear shift lock is a likely a safety feature preventing you from driving a car that is not at its optimal level of safety. Contact as well as speak with a professional, planning a repair or overall performance upgrade, allow us to save you some money.
But the shifter won't budge. I found out that there is an actuator that you can zip tie down when you need to put it in 4wd. Would it be hard to install manual locking hubs? Do you have any way to pull codes from the gem? To place an order please call the order desk at 763-425-7474 or toll free 1-800-444-0755. Let me know what you find! When switching into 4L I would hear a clunk and then when pulling forward it was geared down but only the rear tires would spin. To the right of the gear shifter is a small plastic peg.
Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft. Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft. You may see their part looks different than yours. Try shifting as you backup too. You need to move the linkage as you spray it.
The main harness is connected via a clip. It is located behind the transfer case, which is mounted behind the transmission. You could loosen up the fuse box holding these particular wires and check them on their backsides. You need to change the stop light switch located under the dash,at the top of the break pedal. We can easily exchange your current transfer case for you personally, or supply a direct drop in replacement unit shipped to your residence or commercial street address.
Consult your owners manual for this procedure. It took me a while to free up the bolt on mine. I asked a friend who has only driven ford's, and he told me with out a doubt that it's the accuator on the front of the front axel that's the problem. Ford F150 Top quality Replacement Transfer Cases that will survive Each of the minimal service life pieces are going to be exchanged at Proven Force, each of the parts is 100% inspected to guarantee predicted endurance. A Salvage Yard is a wonderful place to learn how a car is built.
I never use 4x4 low, so im not concerned with that. Or switch its self shorted out. You still could have rust on the shift linkage. If you go under your truck, you will see where the 4x4 lever engages the linkage. Since you have a duplicate shift solenoid you may be able to plug in the wiring harness and ground the extra shift solenoid to aid in diagnosing the problem.
Step 3 - Disconnect wire harness from the motor The wire harness must be removed from the motor before it can be unbolted and removed from the transfer case. Do you think I have a vacuum leak somewhere that might be causing this? Proven Performance Take advantage of our know-how whenever updating your F250 Transfer Case We offer Totally free Technical support get in touch with 1-800-444-0755. To do that I had to cut both wires, remove the connector, do the repair and reinstall the connector with crimped butt connectors. If you hear the click, but cannot move the shifter, the solenoid may be out of adjustment or the lock out pin is jammed. Replace with same size fuse. The wires leading to the position sensor are the correct voltage from what I have read. Correct Ford F150 Transfer Case the first time! You can use a test light to see if you're getting power to the solenoid.
If that is okay, then you most likely have a vacuum leak to the front axle. Evidently there was a break in one of the wires of this cable. If the problem is with the front axle engagement, check that the shift motor is operational This is on the front axle. In hindsight, I should drill it and put a grease nipple in it, which I might just do, with felt or plactic washers around the bolt head mechanisms. You may have internal transfer case issues too.