The first step in adjusting your carb is to understand a few basics. Each has a weight and checkball below - you'll have to turn the carb upside down and possibly even give it a tap for them to fall out - be very careful not to lose them! That's why we started PartRequest. It seems that at varying times after I turn the engine off between 5 and 25 minutes , the float bowls empty and the gas ends up in the carb throat. I'd heed that advice - at most I've had to slightly tighten a little extra when reusing the stock ones. If the holes are pretty plugged, you can strip the plastic from a twist-tie same ties used for garbage bags , and use the wire to clear most of them. The altitude compensator should come off next - a matter of 3 screws on the side of the air horn alternately, you can remove it before the air horn comes off. Be careful when disconnecting the stuff on the side - there are washers and you want to ensure you don't lose the order they go in.
Each has a weight and checkball below - you'll have to turn the carb upside down and possibly even give it a tap for them to fall out - be very careful not to lose them! You can get it at Canadian Tire. We have over lots of customer reviews on Mazda Carburetor to help you find exactly what you need. Compressed air works extremely well for this. With the pin finally out the rest of the way, the arm should fall off of the pump, and you should be able to remove the remaining screws and then the pump itself. I love Simple Green for this. This time, I went further down into it then ever before and soaked everything. With all the screws, the center bolt, choke assembly, and the fast idle arm removed, the air horn should lift up.
Removing the accelerator pump itself from the main body is a little more tricky, as there are 4 screws, and 1 is inaccessable because of the pin going through it. There are also 2 washers contained within to take note of. You should be left with the Air horn which will still have the choke and lever , Main body which will still have the jets , and the lower throttle body which will still have the throttle plates and levers. Next, make sure all the passages are clear, particularly in the main body and lower throttle bodies. If the car stops performing well, there's probably something other than jets causing the problem; changing them will only mask the symptom. Thinking it must be the accelerator pump, I installed a new one and was able to accomplish this without removing the carb but there was no change. Where else should I look for the problem? I also tried running a few cans of carb cleaner through the system.
You'll probably hear the srping boing as it's pulled off the arm to the choke linkage. We'll do our best to help you find top-quality carburetors at the best prices possible. Be careful though, sometimes the edges like to stick to the metal parts when you're removing it - if they tear you'll need a new one anyway. Where else should I look for the problem? Turn the screw in one direction, slowly, and idle will accelerate; turn it the other direction and idle will slow. Use a brush to get the grit off.
I found it helpful to put everything in a line as I took it off so I knew which order to put things back on in. Make sure every passage flows air. I'd sure appreciate any ideas that anyone might have as to what is happening here. I am getting good fuel into the carb, the engine turns but won't start. Follow a Haynes, carb, or shop manual. Flooding while the car was running has stopped, but has been replaced with flooding after the engine is turned off! The first step in adjusting your carb is to understand a few basics.
I disclaim all liability for anything that happens to anybody as a result of this existence of this page, any other pages on this site, or any other companies, people, places, or pages, that have been mentioned, referred to or linked to. Not sure which Mazda Carburetor to buy? If it wasn't flooded before you took the carb off and everything's working correctly, it should start without issue. The carburetor's job is to mix or atomize fuel and air and deliver it to the engine. The altitude compensator should come off next - a matter of 3 screws on the side of the air horn alternately, you can remove it before the air horn comes off. The carburetor's job is to mix or atomize fuel and air and deliver it to the engine. That said, burning the end of a twist-tie the ones you get with garbage bags left me with a nice tiny wire that worked great for making sure the holes in all the jets were clear.
Ignore the black cable at the 1 o'clock position. However, a few things can cause minor headaches. Make sure you dont forget the long center bolt the one that the air cleaner wingnut attches to. I set up a video camera looking down into one of carb secondaries and was surprised to see that the gas is not coming from a jet. If you're plannning to reuse the pump, be careful not to rip it.
It may need a light tap if it's stuck to the gasket. With most of these out of the way, you should be able to get at the accelerator pump. If you've left the accelerator cable etc connected, you should be able to tip the carb well enough to gain better access. Next, there's a circlip which must be removed from the pin at the right side. Compressed air works extremely well for this. Frank I have rebuilt my 1980 rx7 carb, followed all the diagrams, cleaned and soaked all the parts, jets, etc.