I also checked the rear shackle swing to see how much room I will need for clearance on the sides of the tips and to see if the rear end housing would clear the over the axle pipe. When one turns, they all do. The tip is up against the valance so its location could be marked. I started fitting the tube that will transition out the back. Each Restoration Guide is based on a complete tear-down and rebuild of the vehicle, ensuring every key procedure is included and providing you with the knowledge to take your classic from shed to showroom. Still, perhaps someone willing to do essentially all of the work at home or with a buddy who owns a shop? No matter how nice you paint them, what wheels you put on them or how big the engine is, when you walk past the doors it all goes down hill from there. It was leveled and lifted into position.
I got the tube where it looked centered between the shackle and the tank. As Vic has alluded too earlier, this system is going through the valance, and it will be interesting to fit the driver's side. One down one to go. It was time to get down to the welding portion. Therefore, it is hardly surprising that there are some rust issues that will need to be addressed. Once I was happy with this setup, the outer part was placed on the car lining it up on the Center Line I had marked earlier and pilot drilled them in place. It costs just as much to restore this ugly coupe as it does a sportsroof, but the sportsroof will always bring twice as much or more finished.
This keeps the parts in line and helps with distortion. It doesn't look like much of a radius, but it ends up being quite a bit. The owner of the Mustang is quite candid about the rust issues. Or, just maybe, someone whose first car was similar to this will come along and see enough sentimental value in it to justify paying someone to restore it. This might be an opportunity to buy a cheap Mustang and make something great of it. These are actually painted and on the car, but I didn't take any pictures with them in place. A smallish piece of 20ga was shaped to fit the contours on the english wheel using a 8.
You will find it listed for sale. The welds look awful but they will sand nicely. Had to finish up a job that is going to be picked up in a couple of days, with that behind me, its tip time. We had discussed going 3. While I'm chopping new holes in the valance, the backup lights are going away. Side note: It would have been better to sell this in the summer in order that someone could work in a canoe trip on the Illinois river whilst picking it up. The dash pad and rear seat look good, and the front seats really only need covers, as the padding looks to be intact.
Might be open to partial trade. Had a couple of ideas on how the tips should look. Go to From simple repairs to weekend project. I need to get this primer and e-coat removed so it can be worked on. I am selling due to downsizing collection, simplifying and relocating.
All the tedious fun of fitting parts together and getting them trimmed is behind me. Tail pipes are next along with marking some holes in the valance. And I would sooner restore an obscure 4-door Rambler than a been-there-done-that-for-a-dollar Camaro any day. Having the large holes chopped in the plates I laid out the bend lines to do a little offsetting for the bushings and the new attachment posts. The rear shackle is going to be great to work around and move towards the tip when the suspension is loaded. To make this a little more interesting, I really didn't want a straight edge miter on the tips but thought it might flow a little better with the same radius as the rear valance. Plus, the monetary value of not being one of the herd is difficult to valuate, and often underestimated.
Both of the backup light holes are history. They were checked for fitment, which works nicely. To each his or her own!. Once again, we have to do some minor navigational adjustments due to the pan hard bar and the way these tail pipes were bent. Having the outsides fairly well done I wanted to check the locations of the new holes I'm fixing to cut.
I started with the inside as it was the hardest to get to. Now that I've gotten to this rabbit hole, nothing to do but jump in head first. I'll get the paint removed from these areas and get the patches welded in place. I have a few craters that had to be filled back up, but the majority of the welds looked like the above picture. This kit has the pipes bent to come out under the valance, well, that isn't in the cards for this one. If one wants V8 torque and sound with classic looks, feel, etc. The passenger side is also in good shape.
The team at Haynes Repair Manuals has just released a compendium of strategies, instructions and step-by-step recipes for making a Ford Mustang restoration seem much less daunting. Looks much better than the smoky burnt up looking condition they arrived in. After a little material removal the pins were taped back in place. A side profile gives a better view of the shape I put in the tips. Mustang wiring diagrams, Data plate and parts decoding, vintage Mustang commercials and more. The Grande was not the most popular car in the Mustang range, but it was still a nice car. A little sanding to get the tips too slide through and it went back up on the car.
I drew a centerline on the inside of the valance and lined up the paper template over my scribed marks. One down, one to go. I knew this would be in and out a bunch so a v-band clap was placed in an out of the way location. With the valance on the car, I double checked the hole locations just to be 101% sure of where these things will exit. I went ahead and marked the locations of the soon to be exhaust holes in the valance and fitted it back on the car.